Every 9th of January, Manila celebrates the Feast of the Black Nazarene which is also known as Traslacion because in 1787, the life-size statue of a dark Jesus Christ, in genuflection and carrying his cross, was transferred from the Recoletos church in Intramuros to the Quiapo minor basilica. The statue was supposed to have come from Mexico sometime in the 17th century. The traslacion has always been commemorated with a reenactment of the transfer which today comprises a procession that weaves through the streets of Manila and can last more than 24 hours.
The Black Nazarene is an exclusively macho undertaking; millions of working-class Filipinos are packed to suffocation and asphyxia trying to get as close as possible to the revered image to push the carrrosa, wipe with white handkerchiefs and small towels (bimpo) the hands and bloodied face of the icon, its frizzy wig, or tug its dark crimson robe. Every year, hundreds of devotees end up with broken limbs, smashed feet, cardiac arrest; this year at least two were crushed to death. Yet the number of devotees continues to increase with women and minors attempting to infiltrate this adult macho spectacle. Three years ago, the procession had to be relocated to the Quirino Grandstand in the Luneta because Plaza Miranda in front of Quiapo church can no longer contain the increasing number of devotees.
As early as October, the parish priest of Quiapo and various religious associations go to the Manila City Hall to start planning. Such a mammoth undertaking has to involve the Mayor and his Chief of Staff, heads of more than 800 barangays, the traffic bureau, health department and the Manila Police. The day after this year’s feast, the Manila Bulletin published an incredible photo on its front page which an unsuspecting tourist could have mistaken for a meteorological image of a deadly typhoon issued by PAGASA or NASA. The photo was somewhat blurred but the message was quite clear– religious fanaticism remains unabated in this day and age.
The day after the procession, there were still long lines of people around the Quiapo church with white hankies. We are astounded by the flaming devotion shown by the male population of Manila, but at the same time wonder why police blotters are filled with reports of domestic violence, incest, carnapping, holdupping, robbery, corruption and other venalities in the local government. Religious fanatics make their not so silent demands, unaware that the Black Nazarene was tortured and nailed to a cross to save his devotees from their own sins. Yearly, religious fanaticism is encouraged, if not celebrated, but how many among those millions adhere to the teachings of Jesus Christ? That is what I mean by the dark side of the Nazarene.